The 2020/21 autumn-winter season through the eyes of 6 designers
The first Haute Couture Fashion Week in digital format left us with images that will be remembered as the moment when fashion continued in times of adversity to continue to inspire.
Dior
On July 6th, the day the unusual Paris Haute Couture week began, social networks were filled with surreal images that transported us to a dream world. Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of the house, worked with filmmaker Matteo Garrone in the production of the short film Le Mythe Dior, which evokes the Théâtre de la Mode: the traveling exhibition of designs on miniature mannequins that in the time of the Second World War united the most representative designers of the time to maintain the tradition of Haute Couture. On the other hand, the designer took inspiration from the work of surrealist artists like Lee Miller, Dora Maar, Jaqueline Lamba and Leonora Carrington, whom she considered more than muses to create the designs of the collection. The result was 37 designs in luminous tones that will be carried in a trunk to Dior’s Haute Couture clients.
Balmain
On board a boat on the River Seine, Oliver Rousteing, Balmain’s creative director, commemorated the company’s 75th anniversary with a presentation of Haute Couture that brought together the firm’s archives to pay tribute to its predecessors: Pierre Balmain and, Erik Mortensen, Oscar de la Renta, until Rousteing himself joined the company. 21 models, 50 dancers and Yseault, the French singer, were the protagonists of the moment that will go down in history.
Chanel
The collection of Virginie Viard, Chanel’s creative director, evoked the baroque style of her mentor. The 30 outfits are full of details such as sequins, rhinestones, stones and beads. «I had in mind eccentric princesses, the kind of women that Karl Lagerfeld liked to accompany to parties or Le Palace,» said the designer. The images were photographed by Mikael Jansson.
Viktor & Rolf
Times of change. The collection presented by the designers Viktor & Rolf shows in each of the 9 creations, the accumulation of emotions generated collectively by the health crisis we are going through. Maximalist coats with abstract shapes that ‘protect you from the outside’. Emojis that symbolize different states of mind. A wink to the use of the mask as the most intelligent accessory of the season; undoubtedly, signs of the importance of maintaining social distance. But above all, a proposal that calls for a struggle that these days is worth remembering: «We all deserve to be loved, regardless of age, colour, gender, race, religion or sexuality».
Giambattista Valli
Joan Smalls was the protagonist of a video and a series of photographs that showed Giambattista Valli’s Haute Couture collection comprising 18 romantic looks. The tulle, the bows and the sequins were the details that showed how the designer’s commitment to fashion and to the people in his team still stands.
Valentino
Weeks before the presentation of the brand, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino’s creative director, announced that his Autumn-Winter 2020/2021 Haute Couture presentation would be held in collaboration with Nick Knight, the renowned photographer and founder of SHOWstudio, who was responsible for directing the production of the live performance entitled Of Grace and Light.
The result, as expected, did not disappoint. From the Cinecittà in Rome, video mapping projections with images of flowers and motifs related to nature, painted white dresses that showed us a new volume: stylized and infinite, with lengths ranging from four to five meters long. Sixteen models dancing in the air to the soundtrack of FKA Twigs and a video glitch effect that at times managed to dissolve the thin line between the real and virtual worlds.
SOURCE: VOGUE
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